Training

2. Passed pawns should be advanced as rapidly as possible.

* Take your opponent seriously if they are lower-rated, but don’t be overawed if they outgrade you. [Don’t look at your opponent’s rating if it takes the edge off your attitude.]

Many players when pitted against a stronger opponent try and swap everything off and get a draw in the endgame. They then get a worse game, and are ground steadily down by their opponent’s superior technique who is pleased to get a win without danger of losing. Every exchange made is going to be better for one side or the other, and every passive move makes your position less promising.

Don’t play a quick move because you can’t really decide what is going on, or because you suddenly see a good-looking idea. Take the time to find a good move. I think 15-20 minutes to decide if a Pawn grab is safe is not unreasonable.

1. The king is a fighting piece and should be centralised and used actively.

(Hort) 9. A weakening of your own pawns may be accepted only if it is compensated by a more active placement of your pieces.

* If you have a space advantage (or any other long-term advantage, like the Bishop pair), don’t rush to attack. Milk your advantages – don’t feel obliged to cash in immediately. You should not try to force the issue, but rather maintain or increase your advantage while preventing counterplay. Don’t lash out justy becaiuse you feel there ought to be a winning combination by now. Avoid exchanges and build up your position so that when things do come to a head the situation is at its most favourable to you.

* BISHOP: like the Rook, also needs open lines. The long diagonals a1-h8 and h1-a8 are useful, but often it is more important to point them at your opponent’s King’s-side , for example, by putting them on c4 and e3. Two bishops side by side can be very powerful in attacking from a distance, for example on b2 and c2.

* Rooks need open files.

3 principles (Fine)