Evaluation and planning in a difficult position

Hello again Shivani
In this position, it is black to move and I believe black is better. White has a safer king as black’s king is more exposed but I am finding difficulty on how to bring it to a safe position. King to F8 is risky because of the dark squared bishop. White has a better pawn structure than black however black has better attacking chances on the king side. Black seems to have more piece activity than white. I am very keen to move my pawn to c4, blocking the light squared bishop to the queen side and I can also do a fork with pawn to g3. I really want my knight at the e4 square but it’s difficult because white can do a knight trade with knight to f2. This is a type of position where I am getting confused seeing which is the best move in a game. That (rook) at f1 is also a potential threat.
I think you’re absolutely right that the safety of your King is a key question in this position.  However, checkmate is the aim of the game, and so if your King safety isn’t any good, then the position isn’t going to be good for you, and I think that is what is going on here.  I don’t think White has a mating attack yet, but White can use the poor position of your King to make trouble.
I agree with you that White’s King position is better than yours, so what is it about Black’s position that made you think you have the advantage?
If I was going to do a full positional assessment of the position, I might do it like this:
  •  Development: White needs 1 move to connect Rooks, Black needs 2
  •  King safety: White’s King is safer, Black’s is stuck in the centre
  •  Weaknesses: g5 and e4 are weak; f7, c3 and a3 might become weak
  •  Piece activity: about equal
  •  Forcing moves and initiative: White has e4-e5, Black has …g5-g4
  •  Lines: No fully open files, but Black’s Rg8 looks positive and White’s Bishops have good scope.
  •  Centre and space: White has a better centre although Black has enough space for their pieces.

So, nothing that suggests this position is better for Black.

Did you think that the position was better for you because of your attack down the g-file?  I do like that about your position, but I think at the moment you are attacking with R+N and you might be able to get B or Q into the action as well.  But White has KNRBQ all able to defend the King’s-side, and you will have to get past White’s better centre to get at the white King.  if you count up how many moves it takes you to make a real threat against white’s King it might be g4 gxf3 Nh7 Qf6 Qg8, so 5 moves to threaten mate, which can be met by Bxf3 by White on the second move and you have to think of something new.  For White to make a threat, I think Re1 and exd5 is enough.  So I think your King is in more trouble than White’s.
Let’s try other ideas:
  •  Your g-pawn is under threat, although you have a counter-threat against e4.
  •  So you can play …Nh7 to protect your g-pawn, or …g5-g4 to get it to a square where you aren’t losing it for nothing.
  •  Alternatively, you say that White can have that g-pawn if you can have the e-pawn, and play instead …dxe4.
  •  Yet another idea is to threaten to win the d-pawn by pinning the c-pawn against the Queen: …Qc7 or …Qc8 or …Rc8 threatens …cxd4 when White can’t take back.
All those are pretty reasonable ideas and would all be OK… if it wasn’t for your King.  The plan to play against a King stuck in the middle is to open up lines to attack it with Queen, Rook and Bishops, and checkmate or a win of material will follow.  And the trouble with all of those plans I just listed is that they open up lines in the centre of the board, or allow White to do so, which helps them attack your King.
One example line is:
1…dxe4 2.Bxg5 Qc7 3.Bb5 and White is threatening to win a piece, helped by your King in the centre.
Another example:
1…g4 2.Ng5 cxd4 3.e5 Nxe5 4.cxd4 Nc4 5.fxe4 and White is better able to use the open f-file than you are.
You can try other ideas, or other moves, but I believe this position is running against Black.
And I think that might be where your confusion arises: you think this position is better for Black, and _all you need to do is to get your King into safety_.  I think the position is actually better for White, _because you cannot get your King into safety_.  So when you analyse different ideas, they don’t look appealing, but that doesn’t match your initial assessment of the position as better for Black.  You either haven’t hit on the right idea yet — which is what your message was asking — or your evaluation of the position was not right — which is what I am trying to persuade you of.
Lastly: _the first and most important question to ask of a chess position when it’s your move, before any fancy positional assessments, is_: *does my opponent have an immediate threat? *And I think the answer to that is yes!
White threatens 1.e5, and your Knight is more or less trapped.  It can be taken on any square it moves to apart from h5, and after 1.e5 Nh5, White has 2.Qh7, forking R and N.
So, whichever move you pick in this position, it had better have a defence to this idea.  This is why 1…dxe4 might be favourite: it removes the e-pawn from the board.
If you want to work on your skill in evaluation, there is a nice old book with lots of puzzles and in many of the puzzles the first task is to evaluate the position:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chess-Exam-Training-Guide-Exams/dp/0975476122
And there is a much more recent book which is only about evaluations:
evalgm.com/
You can get a free sample of that book from their website.
I think at your level, you’re going to find both books quite tough, but if you work your way through them, I hope you will get a feel for how to balance the different positional elements.
Another popular book that tackles similar themes is:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Reassess-Your-Chess-Imbalances/dp/1890085138
I don’t care much for Silman’s style, but everyone else in the chess world reckons it’s great, so I expect I am wrong about this…
www.perpetualchesspod.com/new-blog/2019/12/20/bonus-pod-discussing-reassess-your-chess-with-todd-kennedy-chess-books-recaptured-series


P.S.
One of the easiest ways to check a position is to throw it into a Lichess study:
lichess.org/study/k71OlCk1/0MpZ1Zzd
Then turn on Stockfish…


This will give you the engine evaluation in pawn’s-worth and the best move (or the best 4-5 moves in order)
If you leave Stockfish turned on, it might change its mind about exactly what the evaluation is, or which of the 4 moves is a bit better than the others, but it should give you a broad idea about the position.
If I do that to your position, it comes up with +2.3, which is to say, although material is equal, White has an advantage in position which is worth more than 2 extra pawns.
If I look at the 4-5 best moves for Black, it lists them as …dxe4, …g4, …cxd4, ….Qc8, and …Qc7, and they’re all about as good as each other.  I didn’t think of …cxd4 and I don’t know the idea behind it.   That is the disadvantage of computer analysis — you can see the evaluation and the moves but you don’t get any explanation.  +2.3 might mean that White’s position is better but not why… or that Stockfish sees that in 10 moves’ time White can win 2 pawns… or win a Knight for a pawn.
But the computer is a good check on your assessment and analysis.  The best way to use it is the way things happened here: you committed yourself to an evaluation, and then checked it.  And that process is the key to improvement.
bw
D

Do you coach beginners?

 

Dear Dave, 
Hope this email finds you well. 
I’m looking for a coach to teach chess for my 7-year-old daughter. 
My friend recommended you, but I don’t know whether you are available or have available space for a beginner. 
Look forward to your reply.

Thanks for your interest.

I am available for coaching and have space, but I would not like to charge you money to teach a beginner.

Beginners mostly need practice, and some basic advice which is freely available.

If she has no opponents at home or at school, then I suggest you sign her up at ChessKid.com (a child-friendly place to play) or at lichess.org (an adult space, but you can turn off chat, so you can only say things to each other like ‘Good game’ and ‘Thank you’).  You can also get computer and ‘phone apps which play chess:
https://www.dadsuggests.com/home/best-chess-apps
The free level of ‘Play Magnus’ might amuse.  Some of the free chess apps like Stockfish are of Grandmaster strength, so watch out for that!

Beginners nearly always lose (or win) games because they miss (or spot) captures and simple tactics.
There are places where you can practise simple tactics for free, including lichess.org.
https://lichess.org/training
To learn what the simple tactics patterns are, you can refer to
https://devonjuniorchess.co.uk/content/middlegame-tactics-advice
https://devonjuniorchess.co.uk/content/course-chess-tactics
Someone made a video series out of that last collection:

And for defending:

Playing games and revising simple tactics are the most important things to start with.

She will also need to know how to finish off a game of chess:

And to start a game properly:
https://devonjuniorchess.co.uk/content/openings-advice

For more basic advice, try these resources:

https://www.chessinschools.co.uk/chess-at-home

and if modesty permits:
https://onionschess.co.uk/content/4-book-deal

If she does not like to read books, there are many videos on YouTube which are free.  I have made some myself, as you see.

I hope some of that is helpful.

For coaching, I charge £30 per hour, and for a month’s worth of lessons, I expect you can buy all the books your daughter might need for her first year or two of playing chess!

If she starts to play on lichess.org, let me know what her online name is (I am drdaveexeter), and I will be able to see her games, and I can tell you which bits of advice need more attention.

Learning new games

When I started writing books for juniors with Tim Onions, the first thing I did was go and learn Japanese Chess (Shogi) and Chinese Chess (Xiangchi), because I wanted to remember what it was like to be a beginner, trying to grapple with a complex game but with a limited conceptual armoury  (e.g. how does the horse move again?)

During lockdown, I’ve had a regular date with David Beckwith to play board games online.  We both like that category of game in which chess fits: abstract strategy games.  (You may be interested to learn that chess comes only 46th in the list of best abstract strategy games [or used to].)

We’ve been playing at boardspace.net, a rather wonderful achievement by David Dyer, who has created online versions of classic and newer games — I think there’s about a hundred there.  We started at A and worked our way through to Z, picking out ones we thought were promising, then went through A->Z again to see if we missed anything.  It was surprising how many games were decided because one or other of us forgot a rule!

So in the last 18 months I have tried to learn a LOT of new games, and I can roundly endorse what I read in the journal Games and Puzzles Design, by its editor in the first issue:

“Embed the rules.” (Cameron Browne)

“To ‘embed the rules’ means to use relevant features of the game’s physical components (board, pieces, environment, etc.), to enforce implicit rules which then do not need to be explicitly stated to players. This might also be described as
‘hiding the rules in the equipment’… “

This applies particularly when pieces have very different values or movement.   A nice example is from when I was battling with shogi.   There is a quite a barrier for the non-Japanese reader in getting to grips with the characters written on the pieces.


(Oliver Orschiedt‘s picture, used under CC)

I found a kids set, which had the moves written on the pieces, and the pieces of clearly different sizes:

Not obvious from the dismal photographs, but the pieces bear tick marks in the corners and on edges to show which directions they can move.

Another nice way of approaching the same goal with identically shaped and sized pieces was this one from Schmidt Games: the moves are painted on the pieces.

Inspired by these sets, I made insect-themed sets, for the full game and a simpler version Dobutsu Shogi:

Not perfect, the unpromoted yellow ladybirds on the third row up should really have only one spot. but they came with 4 and I didn’t bother to paint them out.  I was happy with the caterpillar promoting to butterfly!

And I found a symbol set, also very nice:

Got the idea?

So, I thought, wouldn’t it be great to have a way of teaching Western chess with a set where the rules were embedded?

Of course, I was late to the party: Bauhaus got there decades ago.


Kent Wang’s photo (shared under CC)

You can quibble about the King and Queen but I think that’s as close as you’re going to get to embedding the moves in the pieces.  And wouldn’t it be an easier game to learn if that was our standard set, and not the Staunton?

From Boardspace, games like Hive, Cookie Disco, Arimaa and Xiangchi were a miss on the Browne rule, while Mijnlieff was a definite hit.